The Himalayan Handlooms

The Himachal Shawl is a light woollen fabric measuring 1 m X 2 m. It is usually draped around and over the shoulders and chest. It may be made from mill spun or hand spun yarn. The fibre is merino wool, local sheep wool, Pashmina, Angora or a mixture of these. The yarn used may be dyed or of natural colours.The shawl is believed to be a relatively recent introduction to the tradition of Himachal Pradesh. Shawl weaving today has become one of the most flourishing industries providing a means of livelihood to about 35 thousand weavers of the state.

The Kullu Shawls A light woollen fabric made of Merino, Angora or Pashmina wool with intricate designs on it. Size- 2m x 1m.

The Kinnauri Shawls Very finely woven Angora, Pashmina or sheeep wool shawl with Kinnauri designs. Size- 2m x 1m.

The Extra Weft Woven Shawls Angora, Pashmina or sheep wool shawl with non-traditional designs. Size- 2m x1m.

The Kullu Shawl owes its origin to the Kinnauri Shawl. The Kullu Shawl's designs and motifs woven today have originally been derived from intricate Kinnauri designs that have been enlarged enormously and simplified with the passage of time. This has resulted into a reduction of labour and the time involved—thereby reducing their cost and making them commercially more viable.

Mill spun yarn dyed in various colours is used for the ground, while a vast range of acrylic colours is used for the pattern in the border. These shawls are available in wool, Angora, Pashmina and handspun material. The yarn used may be chemically dyed or vegetable dyed.

Technical Specifications

Yarn Used

• Warp - 2/44's to 2/64's woollen worsted.
• Weft - 2/44's to 2/64's woollen worsted, hand-spun—Indian wool, Pashmina, Angora (Rabbit wool), Yak wool, etc.
• Patterning - 2/32's woollen worsted/ acrylic 2-3 ply.

Size- 2 m X 1 m.

Weave- 2/2 twill (base) & weft rib in patterning.

Weight- If woven in 2/48's count the weight of a shawl may vary from 360 gm to 390 gm depending on the patterning and design.

Widely renowned for the intricacy and finesse in weaving Kinnauri Shawls are unique. Their elaborate geometrical designs bear a strong Central Asian influence. Many of the motifs woven have a very special symbolic and religious significance. The colours used for ground are white, black, natural grey and brown. The main colours used for patterning are red, orange, pink, blue, green, yellow, black and white. Out of these five colours represent five elements—white stands for water, yellow for earth, red for fire, green for air and blue for aether.

Many a times, they have patterned borders running all along the four edges thereby increasing the labour involved and making them more expensive than Kullu Shawls. Most of the shawls for commercial use are woven on the frame loom, though the ones for local use are still woven on the pitloom. Here the weaver weaves it in two pieces of half width each and later joins them from the center with elaborate hand stitching. This serves the dual purpose of function and ornamentation.

Technical Specifications

Yarn Used

• Warp - 2/48's woollen worsted.
• Weft - 2/48's woollen worsted, hand-spun—Indian wool, Pashmina, Angora (Rabbit wool).
• Patterning - 2/32's woollen worsted/ acrylic (Cashmelon).

Size - 2 m X 1 m.

Weave - 2/2 twill (base) & weft rib in patterning.

Weight - If woven in 2/48's count the weight of one woman's shawl may vary from 360 to 390 gm depending on the pattern and design. However if yarn of other counts or handspun yarn is used, no definite weight can be predicted. It will depend on count of yarn and pattern/ design.

Due to limitations in geometrical designs certain modifications have been done in Kullu Shawls by imparting extra weft for patterning. In this type of shawls many new designs can be woven by imparting extra weft for patterning in place of typical patterning. It is also simplified, less time consuming, cheaper in cost and commercially viable.

Technical Specifications

Yarn Used

• Warp- 2/44's to 2/64's woollen worsted.
• Weft- 2/44's to 2/64's woollen worsted, hand-spun—Indian wool, Pashmina, Angora (Rabbit Wool), Yak Wool, etc.
• Patterning- 2/32's woollen worsted/ acrylic 2-3 ply.

Size- 2 m x 1 m.

Weave- 2/2 twill (base) & weft rib in patterning.

Weight- If woven in 2/48's count the weight of a shawl may vary from 360 to 390 gm depending on the patterning and design.

Kullu shawls are extremely beautiful in rich and flamboyant colors and patterns. With rich and bright hues, they are just perfect to match with any outfit. They enhance your look. Women also wore Kullu shawls especially, during functions and occasions like weddings and anniversaries.Indeed, according to traditional folklore, Kullu shawls is said to bring prosperity and good luck. It is the symbol of opulence, success and wealth.

The Weaving Process
The tradition of Wool weaving in Himachal Pradesh is of very ancient origin. Its exquisite textiles are characterised by colourful geometrical borders woven in tapestry weave over a twill ground in natural shades of wool. Since centuries, the people of Himachal Pradesh have been known to weave:

• Pattu- A Woollen fabric draped by women like a sarong.
• Dohru- A Woollen fabric worn by the women also draped like a sarong, though in a different style than the pattu.
• Shawl- A light Woollen fabric draped around the shoulders and chest by women.
• Chaddar- A gents shawl.
• Patti- Local tweed used for coats, jackets and trousers.
• Tweed- Worsted fabric generally woven in stripes or checks used for coats, jackets and trousers.

Man learnt weaving from spiders and sparrow/ tailor bird. On tracing back its origin, this craft heritage reveals a very strong Central Asian influence. The people of Himachal, inhabiting areas right from Lahaul-Spiti to Kinnaur had contacts and trade relations with people of Indian plains as well as those of Western Tibet. This led to the growth of a culture influenced by Central Asian traditions on one hand and Hindu traditions on the other.

The weaving activity of Himachal Pradesh is supposed to have originated in Kinnaur. In the later years, some of the weavers migrated to Kullu and settled there. Known as the 'Bushahras' they introduced the craft of weaving to the people of Kullu. Kullu being a tourist resort enroute to Manali, the weaving activity that was originally practiced to suffice local needs gradually took a turn towards commercialization. Soon it became a major industry that started catering to the demands of locals, tourists and outside state. Today, this Handloom industry plays a very vital role in the economy of Himachal Pradesh. It is concentrated in Kullu; there is significant activity in Kinnaur, Lahaul-Spiti, Chamba, Kangra and Mandi districts.

Considering the geographical and climatic conditions, Himachal Pradesh falls under the temperate Himalayan Region. The cold climate prevalent is suitable for sheep and goat husbandry which also fulfills the necessity for Woollens.

The woollen yarn is procured in cone form from the mill spinning unit and further wound onto various bobbins for making the warp.

In the case of the pitloom, the warp is made manually by winding it around peg stands separated by a certain amount of distance. The drafting and denting of the ends is done by pulling them through the thread healds and the reed with the help of fingers. The warp is then set onto the loom, its ends are tied and its tension adjusted as per the requirement.

The warp for the fly shuttle flame loom is wound on the warping machine. It is transferred to the warp beam under tension, which is then put on the loom for drafting and denting. The warp ends are drafted and dented with a reed hook, the loom tie-ups and tension are readjusted and the loom is all set for weaving.

The basic structure of the shawl is 2/2 twill woven on a straight or pointed drafting order. The surface texture could be as follows:

• Straight lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to give diagonal lines.
• Pointed lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to give a vertical zigzag.
• Straight lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give a horizontal wavy pattern.
• Pointed lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give a diamond shaped structure.

The patterned border of the shawls is always woven in a basket weave with the dove-tailing or slit-tapestry techniques.

Kullu Cap is a colorful article made out of woollen cloth. The cap is round in shape and has a colorful border on its sides that is separately woven on small border looms.

An important wear specially during local festivals and ceremonies, Bhuttico's Kullu Caps have now reached far corners of the world and have become a fashion symbol all over. Bhuttico's Kullu Caps are available in a range of border designs and in all sizes.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

YARN USED

WARP - 2/24's LOCAL SHEEP WOOL
WEFT - 2/24's LOCAL SHEEP WOOL

BORDER IS WOVEN IN VARIOUS SYNTHETIC/ PURE WOOL YARNS OF 2/32'

But Every Distt. has its own culture and tradition

Nd it varies from place to place..

thats why there are different dresses in different places...as they they have a different stuffs in their caps.Such as kulluvi people wear a different cap than kangri gaddis...
For more information you can directly go to www.bhuttico.com.